2009 Pinot Noir Willlamette Valley

At first: Bright, dense crimson. Rather tired, rhubarb fruit. Sweet bonbon notes on the palate. A bit simplistic. Juicy fruit though. Easy pleasure. Liquorice. Vibrant. Retaste: Simple and embryonic and a bit coarse but well intentioned. (Score 16) (JR)

The medium ruby-colored 2009 Antica Terra proffers an alluring bouquet of smoke, rose petal, cherry, raspberry, and incense. Velvety-textured, ripe, and elegant on the palate, it reveals a laser focus and considerably more grip and concentration than is typical for this vintage. This lengthy effort can be approached now but will evolve for 1-2 years and provide enjoyment through 2019. In just a few years, Maggie Harrison has managed to place Antica Terra on my short list of Willamette Valley’s finest producers. The estate owns 11 acres of vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA and leases an 8 acre parcel from Shea Vineyards in Yamhill-Carlton. Tel. (503) 244-1748; www.anticaterra.com

Bright ruby-red. Pungent aromas of black raspberry, cola, allspice and dried rose. Supple and sweet, with deep red and dark berry flavors complicated by notes of spicecake, vanilla and anise. Gently tannic on the finish, which leaves notes of berry skin, cola and smoke behind. This is delicious right now.