2010 Kongsgaard The Fimasaurus

Called The Fimasaurus, I tasted four vintages and found the two stars to be the grapy, layered, full-bodied and opulent 2012 and its older sibling, the 2010, which was primordial, earthy, meaty, but very tannic and structured, with a cool-climate mouthfeel and an almost Bordeaux/Medoc austerity imposed on the richness of California. More elegant and spicy as well as more attractive for current drinking were both the 2011 and 2009. These all look like impressive wines, but they are so limited in availability, I’ve kept my tasting notes short. The brilliant John Kongsgaard – part winemaker, part opera devotee, and part mystic – has a few new items up his sleeve for release. Of course, he is still offering his Chardonnays and Syrahs, which are among the very best made in California. Over recent years Kongsgaard has branched out to produce Cabernet Sauvignon from Atlas Peak. He has two cuvees now that come from these volcanic soils, cropped at very tiny yields of one ton of fruit per acre. The wines come from relatively old vines for Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, 35 years of age as of 2012. Kongsgaard’s newest baby, which he started making in 2009, is only two to four barrels of co-fermented Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in a 50/50 blend from the Atlas Peak site. Fax (707) 226-2936