2010 Pomarium Estate Pinot Noir

Autumn leaves, spices, tobacco and dried cherries waft from the glass in the 2010 Pinot Noir Pomarium. A wine of considerable aromatic lift and perfume, the 2010 also has plenty of underlying structure. Today, the 2010 is exotic and beguiling, but also at times a bit fragile. Savory herbs, tobacco and floral notes linger on the close. The Pomarium is the most elusive of the Peay Pinots. Constantly changing in the glass, it delivers notable complexity and personality in spades. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Vintage 2010 wasn’t kind to Peay, as yields were down a full 50%. Then again, that is not unusual for extreme coastal sites that require heroic viticulture and relentless commitment to quality, exactly the values the Peay family embodies. Andy Peay told me 2010 required considerable sorting because of brutally cold weather. The late season heat spikes were less of an issue as most of the vines were in veraison at the time. Readers should note that the Peay Pinots aren’t vineyard designates, but rather are crafted to have specific signatures. The 2010s were made from fully de-stemmed fruit. Tel. (707) 894-8720

Medium red. Alluring aromas of red fruit preserves, incense and candied rose, with smoke and mineral overtones. Juicy, sharply focused raspberry and bitter cherry flavors show impressive depth and energy, with a slow-mounting florality. Refuses to let up on the finish, which strongly repeats the raspberry and rose notes.