2008 Chardonnay Larry Hyde & Sons

From Carneros, the 2008 Chardonnay Larry Hyde and Sons Vineyard is the most tropical fruit-scented Aubert offering, and it reveals more bold hues to its straw/green color. A dense nose of marmalade, nectarines and tropical fruit (pineapple) is followed by full-bodied, intense flavors and a stony minerality that emerges with coaxing. This is a big, bold, California-styled Chardonnay to enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Mark Aubert’s brilliant Chardonnays continue to place this winery in California’s top Chardonnay hierarchy, sharing the same rarified air as Marcassin, Kongsgaard, Peter Michael, Luc Morlet, Kistler, Hartford Court and DuMol. These cool climate, usually hillside sites on the Sonoma Coast are cropped low, the wines are fermented in new French oak and bottled without fining or filtration. I am on Aubert’s mailing list, and while I never seem to have enough wines to age very long, a recent tasting of his 2004s revealed them to still be in splendid condition. With a few noteworthy exceptions, aging California Chardonnay beyond a decade is a fool’s game, but certain older Marcassin and Mt. Eden Chardonnays have impressively stood the test of time. I am sure Aubert’s would also, but who can defer their gratification that long? Tel. (707) 963-4569; Fax (707) 963-4322