2010 Ma Douce Chardonnay

The 2010 Chardonnay Ma Douce opens with gorgeous, Burgundian aromatics. Crushed rocks, gunflint, smoke, lemon oil, apricots and juicy peaches flow across the palate. The 2010 is rich, voluminous and textured from start to finish. Ma Douce is the most vibrant and focused of the Morlet Chardonnays. This is a beautiful Chardonnay from Luc Morlet. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Luc Morlet must surely have one of the broadest portfolios in California between the wines he makes under his own labels and for his consulting clients. There are a lot of beautiful wines in this range, although I have to admit, I tend to prefer the wines Morlet makes in Napa Valley over those from Sonoma. I have a slight preference for the 2011 Chardonnays over the 2010s, as I find the more recent vintage a touch more refined. In addition to these wines, I also tasted all of the 2011 Pinots, but found them in an awkward, raw state that is not unusual for young wines from this cold and very late harvest. Tel. (707) 967-8690

(Morlet describes this vineyard as "true Sonoma Coast," on the second ridge in from the ocean, not far from Marcassin, Three Sisters and Hirsch): Good full yellow. Aromas of lemon and orange peel, pineapple, iodine and pear brandy, lifted by spices. Layered, minerally and light on its feet, with noteworthy refinement to its lemon, orange blossom and spice flavors. Finishes with lovely building length.

The 2010 Chardonnay Ma Douce possesses gorgeous aromatics, expressive fruit and an inviting, creamy finish. The flavors aren't fully developed, but that is not surprising given that the fruit was not picked until the end of October in this late-ripening coastal site. It is the elegance of the texture that stands out most.