1996 Meursault Les Perrieres

Matrot's aversion to new oak is evidenced by the fact that the Meursault Perrieres was aged in previously used barrels, only 20% of which were one year old. Its mineral-laced, creamy yet tightly-wound nose is followed by a medium-to-full-bodied, broad, powerful, extracted, and gorgeously elegant wine. Abundant quantities of minerals, grilled almonds, stones, anise, steel, and traces of oak spice are found in this complex, ample, yet racy, and exceedingly long wine. It may well be the finest wine I have tasted from Thierry Matrot. I recommend cellaring this offering until at least 2004. It should easily hold its peak through 2010 with good cellar conditions. In their youth, Matrot's whites often appear to be lean, but, like Francois Jobard's Meursaults, it is because they are wound as tightly as a spring. If they must be drunk young, readers should decant them prior to the meal. This estate officially has two names, Domaine Joseph Matrot and Domaine Pierre Matrot. "Joseph" is used for wines sold to Vineyard Brands (these include the Meursault, Meursault Les Chevalieres, Meursault Blagny, Meursault Charmes, Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux, and the two reds that will be reviewed in the upcoming Cote de Beaune report). The Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company imports Domaine Pierre Matrot's wines, which include the Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes, Meursault Perrieres, Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux, and the Volnay Santenots. Importer for Domaine Joseph Matrot: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802. Importer for Domaine Pierre Matrot: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.