2005 Hermitage Cuvee Autrement

A super-intense version of the Cuvee Emilie is the 2005 Hermitage Autrement. Vinified in 550 liter new oak demi-muids, it is an enormously concentrated, incredibly backward, black-colored, dense, rich wine that requires a decade of cellaring. While virtually impenetrable, it is unquestionably among the most concentrated wines of the 2005 vintage. Run by Philippe Desmeures and his daughter, Emilie, this family owned business is a rarity in Hermitage where virtually everything is dominated by the leading negociants, Paul Jaboulet-Aine, Chapoutier, Delas, and Guigal. There is only a handful of small, artisanal estates such as Jean-Louis Chave, Sorrel, Faurie, Yann Chave, and Desmeures. His 2005 reds have developed beautifully from barrel to bottle. Desmeures and his daughter believe that in the northern Rhone, 2006 has more in common with 1991 than any other vintage since. That’s a legitimate comparison as the 1991s were underrated, had zesty acidity, terrific bouquets, not the greatest density or richness, but enough stuffing for 15 or more years of cellaring for the biggest wines.An excellent source of white wines, readers should not miss the gorgeous 2006s, which eclipse the very good 2005s. The 2005 whites are leaner and more austere, with good acidity, but perhaps not the charming aromatics or lusciousness of the 2006s Importer: A Patrick Lesec Selection, agent for the US market: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532

There are only 50 or so cases of the 2005 Hermitage Autremonde, the same cuvee that is called Patience in 2004 and l’Essentiel in 2003. It is a very concentrated wine with an inky black/purple color, thick, viscous flavors, superb concentration, monster tannins, and good acidity. Any purchasers will need to forget it for 5-8 years, but it should last for three decades or more. In 2003 Remizieres produced some extraordinarily thick, almost super-concentrated, over-the-top wines that were named Cuvee l’Essentiel for the Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage. Readers should note that in 2004 the wine was renamed Patience, and in 2005 it’s called Autremonde. Proprietor Philippe Desmeures, along with the Chave and Sorrel families, are among the very few small family operations still left in Hermitage. Hermitage, which only consists of just over 300 acres, is dominated by the large firms of Paul Jaboulet-Aine, Chapoutier, Delas, and Guigal, with very few small operations still in existence, but this is one of them. Desmeures has clearly moved into the more modern style of winemaking in the northern Rhone. In the richest vintages his aggressive new oak regime works well, but in the lighter years, it is a gamble. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532; Vermont Wine Merchants, Burlington, VT; tel. (802) 658-6771; Noble House, New York, NY; tel. (212) 736-0040; Wm. Harrison Imports, Manassas, VA; tel. (703) 815-9463; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029, Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, Silver State, Reno, NV; tel. (775) 331-3400; and Wine Warehouse, Commerce, CA; tel. (323) 724-1700

Inky purple. Initially closed nose opened slowly to reveal deep, liqueur-like dark berry aromas with intense spice character and a strong graphite nuance. Dense, sweet, rich and deep, with mouthfilling creme de mure flavor. For all its size this maintains a sense of elegance and balance, finishing with broad, velvety tannins and a sweet, precise blackberry flavor.