2021 Harlan Estate

The 2021 Harlan Estate is composed of over 80% Cabernet Sauvignon plus a little Cabernet Franc and just a splash of Merlot. Deep garnet-purple in color, it slowly emerges from the glass with an alluring perfume of violets, wild blueberries, Morello cherries, and iron ore leading to a profound core of blackcurrant jelly, licorice, fragrant soil, and black truffle. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers a beguiling paradox of super-soft tannins and tightly knit black, red, and blue fruit layers, finishing with jaw-dropping grace and poise.

The 2021 Harlan Estate was bottled in March of 2024 and is a classic blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. It's another Bordeaux look-alike with a Pauillac-like character in its darker currants, smoky oak, black cherries, graphite, and violet-driven aromatics. Beautifully balanced on the palate, it has medium to full-bodied richness, a layered mouthfeel, and outstanding length. While it’s clearly in this estate's new, fresher style, it doesn't lack anything and is concentrated, beautifully balanced, has ripe yet building tannins, and I suspect 20-30 years of prime drinking.

Harvest began on 22 August and wrapped up three weeks later for Cory Empting and his team at Harlan Estate. Longtime Harlan collectors might notice that the colour of the 2021 is surprisingly light—an almost lucid ruby colour. From it emerges a beautifully pure and precise red with coiled-up energy: gorgeous violet florals, black currants, black cherry, tobacco, and Szechuan pepper aromas. From the wine's medium-bodied palate, pure black currant, black cherry, and spiced plum fruits intermix with pomegranate seed, tobacco and a hint of dark chocolate. Ultrafine, sculpted tannins build on the palate through the saline-scented finish. This wine has a natural brightness and perfumed florals that deliver freshness. Super compact, with immense structure, and best after 2027. I was able to taste it over three days, and it was still driving hard with tension and energy by day three, and only then beginning to open, which is the mark of a wine with tremendous cellaring potential. Yields were lower than average for the estate. Collectors need to note that this isn't a massive shift in style but rather a trend toward building wine with piercing acidity that ensures it will age for decades. And at this price, it should wow with freshness and energy well into 2041, 2051, or 2061 when opened by those of you (or family members) fortunate enough to have held bottles that long. Have patience, and if you must open the wine in the first decade of its bottle life, taste a glass, then let it decant at cellar temperature for the better part of a day.