2018 Barolo Francia

The Giacomo Conterno 2018 Barolo Francia has opened beautifully since I last tasted this wine at the winery two years ago. It was closed back then (no surprise since I tasted it as an unfinished sample), but with the distance of time, the wine has blossomed to show blackcurrant, cassis, aniseed, blue flower and pencil shaving. The Francia is known for its magical combination of power and nuance, both delivered with seamless intensity. This vintage offers a savory component with hints of toasted spice or spent ember. The tannins are fine and polished.

Serralunga d’Alba. Youthful mid ruby. A wine that challenges you from the minute it’s in the glass. First, peppery and minerally, and then changes into savoury raspberry coulis with hints of cherry. Great perfume development. Spectacular balance between ripe acidity and fine tannins that are integrated into the fruit like a fine mesh. Gorgeous length. Hedonistic as well as cerebral. (WS)

The 2018 Barolo Francia is powerful, deep and also a touch austere. It shows the edginess of all the 2018s, but also has a feeling of textural creaminess that adds tons of character. Spice, menthol, leather and a whole range of balsamic overtones build into the deep, imposing finish. Roberto Conterno decided to forego his Barolo Monfortino in 2018, opting instead to blend all the casks into his Francia bottling. When that happens, Francia often surprises down the road. That could very well turn out to be the case here.