2021 St Joseph Les Roches Vieilles Vignes

From vines aged over 60 years – those identified as Serine are over 100 ­– from La Madonne sur Chavanay, Sainte-Épine sur St-Jean de Muzols, Les Oliviers sur Mauves and Chanson sur Chavannay. 50% whole bunch. Aged for 12 months in new and one-year-old barrels then a further 8 months in foudre. Cask sample. Deep glowing crimson. Really intense nose – quite a contrast to the relatively light Crozes nose. But then on the palate it’s pretty smooth and reminds me of male unguents – a sort of well-dressed man’s dressing-room wine if you can believe it! Bone-dry finish. Not one of the most dramatic red St-Joseph 2021s but very well behaved. Very lifted. Just slightly ungenerous, despite the age of the vines. (JR)

From vines aged over 60 years – those identified as Serine are over 100 – from La Madonne sur Chavanay, Sainte-Épine sur St-Jean de Muzols, Les Oliviers sur Mauves and Chanson sur Chavannay. 50% whole bunch. Aged for 12 months in new and one-year-old barrels then a further 8 months in foudre. Cask sample. Deep glowing crimson. Really intense nose – quite a contrast to the relatively light Crozes nose. But then on the palate it’s pretty smooth and reminds me of male unguents – a sort of well-dressed man’s dressing-room wine if you can believe it! Bone-dry finish. Not one of the most dramatic red St-Joseph 2021s but very well behaved. Very lifted. Just slightly ungenerous, despite the age of the vines. (JR)

Classic bacon fat, violets, blackberries, and sappy spring flower notes all emerge from the 2021 Saint Joseph Vieilles Vignes, a medium-bodied, silky, elegant Saint Joseph that has fine tannins and nicely integrated acidity. It has classic granite character, is balanced, and already offers loads of pleasure.