2009 Barolo Villero

Medium red, showing a bit more amber than the Rocche. Less fruity on the nose, which is currently dominated by minerals, underbrush and flowers. Then larger-scaled in the mouth than the Rocche yet with an ethereal quality to the complex flavors of smoky red fruits, spices, leather and truffle. Generous Barolo in a classic style, finishing with a whiff of leather and serious, slowly mounting tannins. This is very good.

Very pale ruby. Brooding sweet maraschino and iron and earth. Minerally and savoury. Dense, gravelly tannins matched by sweet, ripe fruit. Real depth, balance and grip, and in need of further cellaring. Quite outstanding for the vintage. (WS)

The 2009 Barolo Villero shows a little more fur on its chest and opens to gamey tones of cured meat and underbrush laced with rose, prune and cassis. There’s an interesting dynamic here that pits those autumnal tones against delicate spring flowers. In the mouth, it shows balance and finesse, but it lacks the longer persistency and the tannic building blocks of past vintages. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2020. Spaniard Alex Sanchez is Piedmont’s favorite expat winemaker. His entree into the world of Barolo is by marriage, but his story fits seamlessly into the tale of father-and-son succession that drives this storied wine region. Brovia was founded in 1863 by grandfather Giacinto Brovia who left the property to his son Antonio. The heir died prematurely and the winery ceased to function for 20 years until Antonio’s son (named Giacinto after his grandfather) was able to restart the legacy. One of Giacinto’s two daughters, Elena, was next to take the baton. Her husband, MBA graduate Alex Sanchez, was quickly folded into the fray and has since become the soul (and smile) of the estate. The current lineup shows some exciting highlights (notably the Barolo Ca’ Mia with its exceptional beauty) but, all in all, the wines were not at the levels I had anticipated. The traditional style of the wine, normally so fine, silky and elegant, tasted thin and lean instead – possibly the result of those firm, slightly unhinged, 2009 tannins. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (518) 207-9100