2020 Chardonnay Margaret River

Two-thirds of the fruit is hand-harvested and whole-bunch pressed. Barrel-fermented with ambient yeasts and full solids, like the Heytesbury. This is referred to by Vasse Felix (and on the back label) as their Premier Chardonnay. Most of the barrels go through malo. Aged 10 months in French oak (34% new) and seven months on lees in tank. TA 6.7 g/l, pH 3.16. Bottled June 2021. Lightly smoky mineral, gently sulphidic, and not especially fruity on the nose but deep in citrus on the palate, with a touch of lime, and definite but clean-edge oak influence. Moderate concentration and length. Lots of freshness. (JH)

This 2020 Chardonnay is the complete package and gorgeous in a pristine, understated Margaret River style. Powerful, poised embryonic fruits are on display with citrus, nougat, slightly doughy aromas and oak sitting neatly in the background. A more expressive palate follows, quite mouth-filling but also underlined by juicy, vibrant acidity before a fine and long finish thanks to good tension and torque. It is just a baby now with plenty of class and will be delicious for some years to come.

I think sometimes this wine is overshadowed by the Heytesbury, which sits above it. However, it is an error to underestimate this wine. It may not have the funk nor the phenolic framework that the Heytesbury has, however it is possessed of a poise, polish and class that enables it to sit well in any glass. The 2020 vintage was warm, and the wines produced that year have been across the board excellent. In the 2020 Chardonnay, we see a combination of experienced hand and fortunate season in confluence, which brings us a wine that speaks of salted crushed nuts, pure apple, peach and even juniper, saltbush, a touch of kelp and layers of briney acidity. A brilliant wine.