2013 Chassagne Montrachet Clos St Jean

The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint Jean, from a massale selection of Puligny vines planted in 2004, has a light, airy vanilla and almond-scented bouquet, the oak nicely integrated and gaining intensity in the glass. The palate has more to say at the moment: the acidity well judged and lending this Clos Saint Jean sufficient tension and poise. It is linear and "correct," but it should gain more complexity on the finish by the time it is in bottle.

(Carillon replanted these vines, on clay-and-limestone soil, to chardonnay in 2004): Candied lemon zest and peach on the nose. Round, sweet and easygoing, with just enough acidity to give shape to its lemon and pineapple flavors. Nicely fruity wine with moderate concentration. A tad warm on the back. Carillon noted that he "never touches the acidity" and that this wine has about four grams per liter.