2023 Huilkrans Chenin Blanc

From old dry-farmed Chenin parcels planted on Oudam Farm between 1974 and 1989 on a gentle southern slope at 450 m. Big bush vines planted far apart (low-density vineyards) with yields usually in the region of 1.5 ton/ha. The grapes were hand-sorted and whole-bunch pressed. The juice is very lightly settled with no additions. Spontaneous fermentation in foudres and also in old barrels of various sizes, mostly 400 litres. Fermentation lasted for about one month. The wine was kept on lees for around 12 months, then rested in tank on fine lees without fining for a further six months prior to bottling. RS 2.6 g/l, TA 5.82 g/l, pH 3.39. Huilkrans is unexpectedly gentle on the nose, almost hazy. It smells faintly of petrichor; the soft sweetness of white melon and custard apple. The tension on the palate builds so imperceptibly that by the time you know it's there, it has the power of a storm. A squall of citrus and rock salt. It brings to mind the Japanese word  kogarashi  – a cold wind that signifies the coming of winter, symbolises change from one state to another, and comes with its own scent, the essence of winter. And then the squall passes and in the quiet pool left behind, you can taste melon skin and grilled lime peel, choisya flowers, fennel seeds. It really does feel as if this wine has a story it wants to tell. (TC)