2021 Caronne Sainte Gemme

This vintage is likely to be the swan song for this château, a longtime stalwart of the British and American markets, as it is set to be absorbed into one of Bernard Magrez's vast agglomerations. That's a pity, as this historically rather chewy but characterful wine is making progress, as evidenced by the 2021 Caronne Ste Gemme, a medium to full-bodied, lively and impressively velvety effort evocative of blackcurrants, loamy soil, cigar box and licorice.

As Ch Maldeleine in St Emilion ended up in Belair Monange, and Pontac Lynch ended up in Issan, it seems Caronne Ste Gemme might be the next well-loved name to disappear, as this estate has recently been sold by the Nony family to Bernard Magrez, and it likely to be included in his Médoc 1855 Château La Tour Carnet as of next year. That makes it a wine to buy in 2021, as a mark of respect for what has been one of the true quality value wines in the Haut-Médoc appellation around 35% of its production going into the UK market), on excellent gravel soils close to the St Julien borders. You’ll find some of the dark fruits that are generally a little hard to find in this vintage, not exuberant but measured, with bilberry, cassis bud, touches of earthy smoky oak, all carefully extracted and balanced and with an effortless juice. A little old school and rustic, but clear skill in winemaking on dislay, and mouthwateringly sappy tannins on the finish. Lovely stuff from François Nony. It will be a fine, if sad, addition to La Tour Carnet.