2005 Savigny Les Beaune Les Grands Liards

From iron- and clay- rich soil on the Pernand side of Savigny, the village-level 2005 Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Grands Liards offers aromas of blackberry, bacon fat and toasted nuts, along with rich, roasted nut and black fruit flavors, but displays a bit of dryness in the finish probably due to its having been recently sulfured and bottled. There is a lot of depth here, and good concentration without weight. Malolactic fermentations took place without delay and Patrick Bize had bottled many of the wines already in November. A significant portion of whole clusters were included in most of the fermentations. Wines from this address seldom make concessions to early drinkability or cheap thrills, and the inherently concentrated, darkly toned 2005s are certainly no exception. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70.