2009 Mullineux Syrah
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One serious bottle of wine and a rocking value, the 2009 Mullineux Family Wines Syrah was sourced from six vineyards and comes from vines between 14 and 20 years in age. Fermented with close to 25% whole cluster and age in 15% new oak for 11 months, it exhibits gorgeous aromas of blackberry, smoke, tobacco, and ground pepper that flow seamlessly to a medium to full-bodied, dense, and structured Syrah that has loads of texture and depth. Impressive all around and this superbly balanced red will benefit from short term cellaring, and drink well for a decade or longer. I like this every bit as much as the more expensive single vineyard Syrah.
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Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
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From six different vineyards. Very dark crimson. Relatively light and quite tart. Transparent and racy. Sinewy. Dramatically lean for SA. (JR)
Sourced from six vineyards to represent the different terroirs of Swartland, the 2009 Syrah was 20% whole cluster fruit and it was raised in 10% new oak for 12 months. The nose is taciturn at first but a few swirls of the glass soon wakes it up with enticing scents of dark berried fruit, a dash of white pepper and kalamata olive that opens nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with plump blackberry, boysenberry and a touch of black plum with very fine acidity. This leads to a caressing, fleshy finish that belies the structure underneath. Classic in style, reserved but ambitious, the 2009 Syrah should repay several years aging. Drink 2013-2018. For the sake of disclosure, readers should be aware that I have known Chris and Andre Mullineux's financial backer long before they established Mullineux Family Wines. However, this Swartland producer is too important and their wines too good to pass over. Along with Eben Sadie, Chris has been at the forefront of the so-called -Swartland Revolution.- He adopts a minimalist approach to his wine with particular focus upon expression of terroir and this has resulted in the debut of two single vineyard releases in 2010, with the goal of translating the granite and schist soils of Swartland. This is Old World mantra applied to the New World to great effect. But let us begin with their entry-level range entitled -Kloof Street,- which is sourced from vineyards under long-term contracts. Importer: Kysela Pere & Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228
60% Chenin Blanc, 10% Clairette Blanche, 10% Roussanne, 10% Viognier, 10% Grenache Blanc, although the label specifies a different blend since neither Roussanne nor Grenache Blanc are authorised for Swartland. Stunningly refined and appealing for those of who like dry whites to taste as though they have some of the bedrock (shale in this case) soaking in the wine glass. Beautifully judged with notes of jasmine, lemon peel as well as all that minerality. Lovely now but there is so much tucked in there that I suspect it will develop beautifully in bottle. A great effort for a second vintage. pH 3.25 (JR)
About the producer
Chris and Andrea Mullineux were at the forefront of South Africa’s new-wave movement and are now one of the country’s most established names. Alongside the Swartland project that made their name, they make wines in Franschhoek under the Leeu Passant name – a tribute to South Africa’s vinous past.