2021 Volnay 1er Cru
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Tasting notes
The 2021 Volnay 1er Cru (a non-vineyard designated blend of Lafarge's 1er Cru vineyards) has a more floral bouquet with hints of potpourri infusing the red berry fruit. Fine delineation, though it does take a few minutes to cohere. The palate is certainly the most tertiary amongst its peers, with tightly wound red berries, quite sapid with satisfying weight and pleasingly measured on the finish. It needs a few months to find its groove but I can see the potential. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.
Critic scores
Average Score
Matthew Hayes, jancisrobinson.com
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
The 2021 Volnay 1er Cru is essentially Lafarge's "Greatest Hits" because, for the first time in the history of the Domaine, the small yield necessitated the blending of all his Premier Crus. It still amounts to just 11 barrels! Matured with just 5% new oak, it has a beautifully defined bouquet with shimmering red fruit, briary, crushed stone and hints of shucked oyster shells. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, classic and "strict" in style, quite sapid on the finish that demonstrates commendable matière. Moderate length. This "ensemble piece" is a delicious offering, though maybe it just misses the personalities of the individual climats.
The 2021 Volnay 1er Cru is a blend of all the domaine's five premiers crus, a first in the estate's history, cropped at a mere eight hectoliters per hectare. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals, orange zest and sweet spices, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with terrific concentration, ripe tannins and a long, precise, mineral finish. Only 10 barrels were produced.
All five premier cru vineyards (Pitures, Les Mitans, Les Caillerets, Clos des Chênes, Clos du Château des Ducs) consolidated in a single cuvée. Cask sample. Mid ruby. Red cherries and richer concentrated coulis. Darker pink and black raspberries too. Intense and rich, beating with an inner rhythm. Fine, fresh acidity and soft veil of powdery, chalky tannins. Dark, and very serious – although a shadow of the 2020 Clos du Château des Ducs, alas! (MH)