2008 Rioja Vina Del Olivo

88% Tempranillo 12% Graciano, from Rioja Alavesa. This may well have been the first single-vineyard wine in Spain. Manual harvesting from the best rows of the Viña del Olivo vineyard (situated around an olive tree which is approximately 1,000 years old), that were put into 20-kg baskets to transport them to the winery to be fermented for 10 days at 28–30 °C in 100-hl French oak vats. Malolactic conversion in new French oak barrels, and aged in French, American and Hungarian oak casks for 17 months. Then aged in bottle for over a year. Mid crimson. Highly distinctive minty note in conjunction with the dark fruit. One of the first wines in this line-up with a herbal character to it. But not green. Stemmy? Highly structured, lots of tension and freshness. Just the merest hint of tertiary character – ageing very slowly. I did not expect it to taste so fresh or show so much fruit. But with air, that minty/eucalyptus character becomes clearer. Under the firm tannins there is still so much fruit. A beauty. Long. (JH)

Inky ruby. A heady, complex bouquet evokes dried cherry, smoked meat and mocha, with a subtle floral overtone. Taut red fruit and floral pastille flavors flesh out with air and pick up a subtle black tea nuance. Shows a tangy edge on the persistent finish, which features smooth tannins and lingering spiciness.

Sweet, fragrant oak. Finely hewn tannins. Lovely rounded tenderness, but very little complexity. Underwhelming – almost certainly needs some time. (RH)