2008 Proprietary Red, Paradise Hills Vineyard

(82.5% cabernet sauvignon, 16% merlot, 1% petit verdot and 0.5% cabernet franc): Good medium ruby. Knockout nose combines dark berries, licorice, violet, minerals and bitter chocolate. Juicy, minerally and suave in the mouth, with terrific grip and aromatic perfume to the flavors of blackberry, cassis and violet. This wine has a tight spine to support extended aging. Here's a classic version of a wine with the verve and floral lift to hide its 15.2% alcohol.

Composed of 82.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and the rest tiny dollops of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, the 2008 Paradise Hills Vineyard Proprietary Red has added considerable richness, weight, texture, nuance and complexity over the last year. Aromas of chocolate, espresso, blackberries, black currants and charcoal/burning embers leads to a full-bodied, expressive, rich wine that is nearly as compelling as the 2007. Dense, full-bodied and already drinkable, it should evolve for 20+ years. Claude and Katherine Blankiet continue to make subtle changes in their winemaking at Blankiet Estate. Michel Rolland has been replaced by Denis Malbec, but superstar viticulturist David Abreu still manages this gorgeous hillside vineyard in the foothills of the Mayacamas Mountains, just behind the large estate of Dominus. The 2008s have improved dramatically since last year, which may be the result of the culling out of certain lots for their second wine called Prince of Hearts. The 2007s essentially performed as well as they did last year, and it appears to be the greatest vintage yet produced at Blankiet. Tel. (707) 963-2001; Fax (707) 963-2012

(82% cabernet sauvignon, 16% merlot and 1% each petit verdot and cabernet franc; 15.2% alcohol) Bright saturated medium ruby. Liqueur-like aromas of kirsch, licorice pastille and spicecake. Dense, sweet, seamless and deep, with a slightly exotic ripeness for the year but no impression of heaviness. Nicely integrated acidity frames the intense flavors of blackberry, cassis, plum syrup, earth and licorice. For all its ripeness, this medium-bodied wine finishes with excellent grip and lift-not to mention extremely fine-grained tannins. New winemaker Denis Malbec, who just started here in February, was still tasting the various lots of this wine at the time of my visit. He sent me this newer blend a few weeks later.