2009 Barolo
Estimated value
Buying options
Tasting notes
(mostly from Serralunga grapes; this was bottled in May of this year, while the crus were bottled in August of 2012): Pale red. Sappy aromas of strawberry, redcurrant and flowers. Lively, sweet flavors of red berries, marzipan and chestnut offer attractive inner-mouth lift and perfume. Offers good depth and finishes with solid energy and broad granular tannins. This Barolo should be perfect to drink in three years.
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2009 Barolo Brovia wraps around the palate with serious depth. Leather, cloves, cedar, mocha and incense all flesh out in a supple, radiant wine that captures the very best qualities of the vintage. Smoke, tobacco and dried cherries develop later, adding further complexity. The 2009 has enough suppleness to drink well upon release, especially if given some air. It is an exceptional wine in its category.
The 2009 Barolo shows pretty characteristics of wet earth, truffle, cassis, blue flower and ginger. The smooth silkiness of the finish starts to fade away a moment too soon. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. Spaniard Alex Sanchez is Piedmont’s favorite expat winemaker. His entree into the world of Barolo is by marriage, but his story fits seamlessly into the tale of father-and-son succession that drives this storied wine region. Brovia was founded in 1863 by grandfather Giacinto Brovia who left the property to his son Antonio. The heir died prematurely and the winery ceased to function for 20 years until Antonio’s son (named Giacinto after his grandfather) was able to restart the legacy. One of Giacinto’s two daughters, Elena, was next to take the baton. Her husband, MBA graduate Alex Sanchez, was quickly folded into the fray and has since become the soul (and smile) of the estate. The current lineup shows some exciting highlights (notably the Barolo Ca’ Mia with its exceptional beauty) but, all in all, the wines were not at the levels I had anticipated. The traditional style of the wine, normally so fine, silky and elegant, tasted thin and lean instead – possibly the result of those firm, slightly unhinged, 2009 tannins. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (518) 207-9100
Brovia's 2009 Barolo capture the best qualities of the vintage in its soft, accessible personality. Sweet floral notes meld into tobacco, cedar and crushed berries in a delicious, entry-level Barolo best suited to near-term drinking. As always, Brovia excels with their straight Barolo, which is made mostly from Serralunga fruit.