1988 Barolo

The 1988 and 1989 Barolo Cascina Francia Serralunga offer a rose and tar-scented nose, deep, full-bodied flavors with aggressive tannin, plenty of ripeness and glycerin, and a heady, spicy, cherry, leather, and herb-flavored finish. Drink these huge, large-scaled, full-throttle Barolos over the next 20 years. The 1989 is slightly more supple than the 1988 because of the nature of the vintage. Conterno, whose wines I have followed since the mid-sixties, is unquestionably the quintessential traditionalist when it comes to Barolo. No concessions are made to modern day tastes. Consequently, his wines are among the most concentrated, as well as the most rustic and tannic. From time to time there have also been levels of volatile acidity that modern day technocrats would consider obscene, but which actually can add to the wine's complexity and character, up to a point. Because Giovanni Conterno is among the last to bottle his Barolos, I have reviewed his current and upcoming releases, including his 1987 and 1985 luxury cuvees of Barolo called Monfortino. I should note that Conterno's 1989 Barolo Cascina Francia has been bottled and may be released sooner than normal. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL.