2006 Chablis Les Preuses
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Tasting notes
Possessed of prominent, piquant nuttiness, the Dauvissat 2006 Chablis Preuses also evinces spiced, caramelized apple juxtaposed with bright, lemony citricity. Rich and substantial yet refreshing, this finishes with low toned, nutty depth, but is less well-knit (for now at least) than the old vines Vaillons. Ideally, I would revisit it in a year or two to assess its long-term potential, but at least 4-6 years of felicitous bottle aging seems assured. Incidentally, the Jean and Sebastien Dauvissat 2005s have turned out very well, with a fine balance of richness and depth with refreshment, but in that vintage, too, I found the outstanding Vaillons Vieilles Vignes nudging past the Preuses. Sebastien Dauvissat (who began his harvest September 17) bottled most of his 2006s in late winter, since which time I have not had occasion to re-taste them. Imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
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Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(from stainless steel tank) Pale, bright yellow. Reticent but highly nuanced nose combines candied lemon peel, violet, ginger and crushed stone, with just the slightest evidence of oak; less expressive than the 2007 version. Dense, spicy and youthfully strict, with no easy sweetness but terrific unflagging persistence to the flavors of crushed stone and ginger. Tactile, bone-dry wine with even more dimension than the old-vines Vaillons. Even better than it appeared to be a year ago, but this will need extended bottle aging. Last year this appeared to be more approachable than the 2005 version, but today it seems the equivalent of several years younger.
Initially reticent nose showed candied citrus peel, minerals, spices, toast and rose petal with air. Supple and quite floral in the mouth, with the fattest and silkiest texture of these 2006s. Also the longest and finest-grained today. More minerally than usual for this wine at this early stage of its evolution-and Dauvissat agrees, saying that this is his most mineral and floral Preuses since 2002. "But then this is a minerally year," he told me. "My Preuses generally takes longer to show its minerality, and it's often so agreeable and flattering early that people drink it too young." A superb showing.