2017 Freestone Pinot Noir Occidental Bodega

The 2017 Pinot Noir Freestone Occidental Bodega, made with 100% whole cluster, has a pale to medium ruby color and opens very spicy with amaro, forest floor, bergamot and exotic spices with a streak of stone and saline and a core of Bing cherries, rhubarb, blackberries and cranberries. It's light to medium-bodied and delightfully loaded with savory, spiced fruits. It has a sturdy frame and well-woven freshness, finishing long and layered.

Quite a floral edge here with abundant violet flowers and blueberries, as well as blue cherries. So fresh. The palate has a core of powerful fruit that winds up into the finish, adding tension to the silky layers of tannin. Cleverly complex and engaging pinot. A very approachable 2017. Drink or hold.

Steep and remote, the Bodega vineyard is just four miles from the coast and is surrounded by redwoods, pines, wild flowers and coastal oaks. Whole-cluster, wild fermentation, aged in neutral French oak barrels, bottled without fining or filtration. Transparent garnet. Really very thrilling. There is both sweetness and freshness here – a little bit of strawberry but no heaviness. I could drink this tonight. Extremely, almost unbelievably, persistent and massively fruity – presumably a reflection of this ripe vintage – but with a fine line and some potential for ageing too. This is not too skinny; it's pure pleasure. Well done! (JR)