2006 Ruchottes Chambertin

Decidedly well-hung notes of game first reach the nose from Roumier's 2006 Ruchottes-Chambertin, although sweetly ripe raspberry and cherry come flooding after. A balance between fruit and gaminess is maintained on the palate, and unlike the Charmes, this is polished in texture, if not notably transparent to nuance. The finish here is quite powerful in fact, carrying with it a hint of heat. More intriguing complexity emerges as this takes on air - one of several hints that it's still a bit reduced - and I suspect that in addition to short-term evolution it needs 2-3 years in bottle to show at its best, after which it should remain worth following for at least a half dozen more. Rigorous triage - along with Christophe Roumier's seemingly intuitive sense for the limits and potential of the vintage - have resulted in a set of 2006s here that are youthfully generous, but in the best instances will be well worth cellaring. The fermentative regimen and elevage (including no racking until assemblage, to maximize contact with lees convey both fat and structure; yet early bottling to preserve fruit) were tailored to the vintage, whereas the regimen of new wood was little changed from other recent years, meaning around one-third for the premier crus. Stems were selectively included, up to something over one-third in the grand crus. I tasted these wines from barrel at 14 months and again from bottle at 18, and they had in most instances both gained textural allure as well as structure and refined their flavors, clearly demonstrating the success of Roumier's strategy. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400