2021 Running Fence Vineyard Cuvee Catherine

Pouring a ripe jeweled ruby/magenta color, the 2021 Pinot Noir Running Fence Vineyard Cuvee Catherine comes from a vineyard situated just outside the winery, which they began planting in 2012 on more well-draining, gravelly soils. The wine is spicy and layered on the nose with umami undertones, boasting a savory marine influence in its notes of black raspberry, brambly red berries, iodine, and incense. It has a good deal of richness in texture, with ripe tannins and a long finish. This is built for the long haul. The estate of Steve Kistler and his family in the Bodega Headlands, Occidental is exclusively devoted to producing coastally influenced Pinot Noir, and they are members of the West Sonoma Coast Vintners Association. Kistler was initially drawn to the area after tasting a bottling of Summa Vineyard that expressed a vivid and more cool climate style. Although Occidental was officially founded in 2011, Steve has been planting vineyards and purchasing property in the area since the 1990s and has retained his original cellar team for the past 30 years. His daughter, Catherine Kistler, has been the assistant winemaker since 2017. Each of the wines tasted for this report are their vineyard-designated selections, which are held back an initial year prior to release. I was highly anticipating this tasting, as the quality of the 2021 Freestone-Occidental tasted last year far exceeded my expectations, and this year’s visit did not disappoint. I would be thrilled to have any of these wines in my cellar.

The 2021 Pinot Noir Running Fence Vineyard Cuvée Catherine is gorgeous. Dense and layered, with tremendous vibrancy, the 2021 captures the magic of the West Sonoma Coast in its marriage of fruit intensity and energy. Dark blue/purplish fruit, spice, new leather, menthol, licorice and crushed rocks all race across the palate. This really explodes on the back end. All the elements are so well balanced. There’s real depth and density here. The mix of suitcase clones on Riparia Gloire rootstock expresses notable darkness and richness, all with the freshness and lower alcohols that are typical of the West Sonoma Coast. (AG)

The 2021 Pinot Noir Running Fence Vineyard Cuvée Catherine offers tremendous energy and purity and will be long lived in the cellar. The nose features soaring scents of wild cherry, cranberry, bitter orange, hibiscus, graphite and botanicals. It floods the mouth with layer after layer of detailed, floral fruit. It has an haute couture structure, its powdery tannins and linear acidity seamlessly nestled into generous, nuanced flavors, and a tremendously long, dynamic finish.