2018 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

The 2018 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has also turned out brilliantly, and it's a touch more introspective than the Blanchot at this early stage. Mingling scents of orange oil and clear honey with hints of toasted almonds, Anjou pears, pastry cream, nutmeg and white flowers, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with striking texture and dimension, racy acids and terrific concentration that largely transcends the vintage. Long and penetrating, this is a fabulous Bienvenues from the domaine that I am more and more inclined to nominate as this climat's finest exponent.

The 2018 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from the six rows owned by the domaine that usually yield two barrels, raised this year in a single 456-liter barrel that the Bachelets have been employing since the 2017 vintage, as they find it imparts greater purity than the single-barrel size. This has a very precise bouquet, taut and focused with scents of orange blossom and pressed yellow flowers; great intensity here. The palate is very intense, the oak nicely integrated and displaying a keen line of acidity. The oak turns a little more dominant toward the finish, as you would expect, though it is in proportion to the fruit and there is a lovely nuttiness/smokiness conveyed by the persistent finish. This is an excellent Bienvenue but it will deserve cellaring for several years.