2022 Ermitage L'Ermite

In the same ballpark as the Pavillon, pure crème de cassis, violets, graphite, crushed stone, and floral notes all emerge from the 2022 Ermitage L'Ermite, which was 85% destemmed and raised in 20% new oak. Full-bodied, deep, and powerful on the palate, it shows incredible concentration and structure, with loads of ripe tannins and a mineral-laced finish. It needs time but will have decades of longevity. Drink 2033-2060. This was another standout tasting with Michel Chapoutier and his team, and the range continues to be among the most extensive and consistently high-quality in the region. The lineup covers every major appellation in the Northern Rhône, with a continued emphasis on finesse, vibrancy, and site expression. Starting around 2017 or 2018, there's been a clear move toward a lighter touch, and whole cluster fermentations are now used more selectively across the range. On the white side, the team is picking earlier, working with lower alcohols, more reductive winemaking, and aiming to hold onto more CO? in the finished wines, part of an effort to limit early oxidation. Still, I remain unconvinced that the shift will yield better aging potential, or better wines for that matter. Looking back, it is often the richer, more powerful vintages like 2009 and 2010 that have aged best and are still youthful, while livelier, more acid-driven years such as 2001 already show clear signs of oxidation. More importantly, even if these leaner styles age longer, they tend to remain lean, linear wines without the texture, layers, richness, and depth that define the best whites of the Northern Rhône. Hermitage, and to a degree the entire region, remains one of the few places where Marsanne and Roussanne can reach true ripeness and bring incredible richness while still staying pure and light on their feet. Early harvesting risks losing that identity, and taken to the extreme, these fresher, more linear wines could come from almost anywhere. The 2022s show the estate's modern style at its most refined, with purity and balance as well as plenty of depth and structure. The 2023s are already showing finesse and class, with solid depth of fruit. From entry-level values to the top Sélections Parcellaires cuvées, there's certainly something here for every Rhône lover.

Like much wine from Chapoutier this year, the 2022 Ermitage l'Ermite is brooding, slowly unfurling with notes of licorice, violet, bacon and smoke mingled with carnal/animal-like notes. Medium to full-bodied, rich and dense, it's concentrated with a structured, grippy tannic frame complemented with a muscular mid-palate and a firm, licorice and carnal-inflected finish. Despite being somewhat dry and rustic, the telluric power of the terroir allows this wine to remain approachable and distinctive, giving it a balance and control that might elude other wines under similar conditions.

The intensely perfumed 2022 Ermitage L'Ermite walks onto the stage with a bang, screaming from the glass with pronounced black plum, black cherry compote, cassis pastilles, dried violet and cedar notes. Nuanced graphite adds a ferrous layer. Classic to the core, the full-bodied 2022 is a standout L'Ermite that’s firmly built like a brick wall, demanding at least until 2030 before showcasing its full potential to anyone lucky enough to own a bottle or two. A long, savory finish wraps it up nicely.