1989 Barolo Big'd Big

The 1989 Barolo Riserva Vigna Big merits its name. This is a large-scaled, explosively rich, densely concentrated, broad flavored, compelling Barolo with evidence of small oak cask aging in its toasty, vanillin scents in its otherwise jammy, black-cherry, herb, and earthy-scented nose. Full-bodied and rich, with gobs of glycerin, tannin, extract, and alcohol, this "big," but approachable Barolo should drink well young and last for 20 or more years. This excellent, sometimes superb producer rarely receives the publicity he merits. I have long thought that Valentino's 1978 Barolo Riserva is about as classic a Barolo as one could find. The 1982s and 1985s (tasted, but never reviewed) were also excellent. While the 1990s were not presented for tasting, three bottles of 1989s proved to be dramatic, head-turning wines with considerable richness and personality. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Imports, New York, NY.