2009 Colore del Testamatta

One-third each Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino. Initially hailed as a great vintage, the hot summer led to ripe fruit and higher alcohol levels. Very high temperatures in August were tempered by cool nights. 2009 was the first vintage where Graetz used consultants only in the vineyards – all winemaking decisions were down to him. Although Graetz stated this was one of his favourite vintages, it wasn’t mine – perhaps a slightly oxidised bottle? Much more prune-like on the nose, a little heavy and jammy on the palate. The fruit feels a bit baked and doesn’t have the freshness of either 2008 or 2010. Powerful, weighty but drying on the finish. (AH)

One-third each Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino. Initially hailed as a great vintage, the hot summer led to ripe fruit and higher alcohol levels. Very high temperatures in August were tempered by cool nights. 2009 was the first vintage where Graetz used consultants only in the vineyards – all winemaking decisions were down to him. Although Graetz stated this was one of his favourite vintages, it wasn’t mine – perhaps a slightly oxidised bottle? Much more prune-like on the nose, a little heavy and jammy on the palate. The fruit feels a bit baked and doesn’t have the freshness of either 2008 or 2010. Powerful, weighty but drying on the finish. (AH)

Very hot conditions, especially in August and September, led to wines with high alcohols and limited finesse. Yields were generous but the colour here is deep, and the nose is voluptuous, with black-fruit aromas and some vanilla tones. Rich and fleshy, this shows ample tannic structure, but also a slight dryness on the finish. Yet it doesn't lack concentration and persistence. A fine result from a tricky vintage but surpassed by the 2010.