2009 Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques
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Tasting notes
The2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques is deep, inky wine endowed with considerable richness and depth in its blackberries, spices, tar, licorice, cassis and grilled herbs. This, too, is quite powerful and dense. There is no shortage of personality in the glass. The 2009 needs time for some of the baby fat to melt away. Of the Esmonin 2009s, it is the wine least marked by the vintage. There is plenty of fruit and structure to provide many years of pleasurable drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel.(212) 334-8191
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Good red-ruby. Subtle aromas of black cherry, violet, licorice and pepper, plus a whiff of chocolatey torrefaction. Quite dry and hard to taste today, with dense but very tight flavors of cherry and licorice dominating. Saline, soil-driven wine, a bit uncompromising today but with the stuffing to reward extended cellaring. Finishes with substantial tannins and a note of bitter chocolate.
(from fruit picked on September 19; the malo finished barely two weeks before my visit; 75% vendange entier; 100% new oak) Deep ruby-red. Black fruits, licorice, minerals and stone on the nose, with notes of bitter chocolate, espresso and violet that reminded me of syrah. Then sweet, thick and full-a black hole of palate-saturating dark fruits and chocolatey oak, and less expressive today than the village wines. Extremely primary, headspinning wine that finishes with subtle notes of chocolate and salty minerality. "A great vintage," said Esmonin at this point of our tasting. But this is a bit inscrutable today.
70% whole grapes and this from new oak. Heady and sweet – the sweetness giving the impression of low acid. Quite a bit of gas. Somehow less dense than usual though certainly full of pleasure. A little bit easy. She leaves 25% stems to help her own pied de cuve . (JR)