2011 Charmes Chambertin

The 2011 Charmes-Chambertin is pure pleasure. Black cherries, plums, cloves, violets and new leather are all woven together in a fabric of notable class. Here it is the wine's extraordinary textural finesse and overall harmony that take over all of the senses. There is so much to like here, including the wine's generous, inviting personality. The Charmes has really come on strong over the last year.

Moving on to the trio of Claude Dugat’s Grand Crus, the 2011 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a quintessential “Charmes” bouquet with vivacious scents of dark cherry, blueberry and quince, suffused with an almost sorbet-like freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly sinewy entry. It coalesces in the second half and displays very fine, supple tannins with plenty of juicy Pinot fruit just cloaked under the 100% new oak at the moment, although everything is balanced and in sync. I would afford this three or four years in bottle for it to fully integrate. Drink 2016-2025. Claude Dugat guided me through his 2011s on a blissful July morning, the flowers in such bloom that at one point he questioned whether I was wearing any scent. For the record, I have never worn aftershave in my life. Claude’s wines are deftly made, occasionally lifted by the new oak to the extent where I feel less would be more, but still highly enjoyable. Importer: Robert Kracher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275

Good bright, dark red. Pure but subdued nose hints at black cherry and licorice. Juicy, intense and imploded, suggesting very pure dark fruits and salty minerals but coming across as rather clenched today. Most impressive on the rising, almost peppery finish, which stains the palate with flavor and stimulates the salivary glands.