2018 Brown (Pessac-Leognan)

This hits all the right spots for early drinking with rich, supple damson fruits and a ton of graphite and black chocolate nuance. Will be even better a year from now, or after a good few hours in a carafe, but this is pure Pessac-Léognan, with tannins that are soft enough to showcase the generous fruits without needing years of ageing. 30% new oak.

The 2018 Château Brown is well defined on the nose, offering plenty of black fruit laced with hints of espresso and dark chocolate, and just a faint star anise note hovering on the background. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly gritty tannins on the entry, fine acidity and nice focus. Though it misses some depth and flesh toward the finish, it does have a spring in its step and it should drink nicely for 12–15 years.

60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Sémillon. Barrel fermented, 50% new. Spicy and fragrant with ripe citrus – lemon and pink grapefruit – and the sense of oak richness and depth, as well as a light herbal note in the empty glass. Lots of creamy and spicy oak and lees influence on the palate, nicely balanced with the fruit. Pretty good intensity on the mid palate, just enough freshness and a little bit of alcoholic heat on the finish but it's a harmonious whole in the style of the vintage. (JH)