2009 Barolo Acclivi

Commune of Verduno. Concentrated ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Intense liquorice at first. Followed by minerally fruit. Intense fruit-driven, compact, tannic finish. Lots to come. (WS)

The 2009 Barolo Acclivi has a few rough edges that are comfortably smoothed out by the ripe and soft nature of the fruit that binds the texture of the wine tightly together. The nose is expressive, and even a little loud, with mocha, sweet spice, tar, plum and leather. It needs more definition, some of which will undoubtedly come into focus in three to five years. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Steeped in history and tradition, this is one of the most enjoyable wineries to visit in the township of Verduno. A cellar tour takes you through the brick-vaulted cellars, the frescoed chapel (now a tasting room), a gallery of historic black-and-white photographs (their wines were sent to the North Pole in a 1899 expedition) and you can admire the painted facade of the main building that proudly displays the colorful images of past wine awards and medals. The property is a museum to family legacy in this beautiful corner of the Langhe. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Another gorgeous wine, the 2009 Barolo Acclivi is one of the more delicate wines here, its considerable depth notwithstanding. Freshly cut flowers, mint licorice and spices are backed up by serious weight, which is quite unusual for the Acclivi. As readers can tell from this note, the Acclivi is a wine of beautiful contrasts. Firm, dusty tannins frame an insistent, beautifully articulated finish. In 2009, the Acclivi impresses for so many things, most importantly a sense of balance that is elusive in this vintage.