2021 Testamatta
Buying options
Tasting notes
The 2021 vintage was generous and warm in Tuscany, perfect for Bibi Graetz’s Testamatta and Colore – two wines that excel in warmer vintages due to the relatively high-altitude vineyards. Testamatta comes from cooler north-facing vineyards. There is a lovely fragrance to the 2021, with red floral tones and red fruit aromas. The wine has a wonderful uplifting sensation and so much brightness while the seamless tannins bring finesse. This is impressive for a 100% Sangiovese. It is a wonderfully juicy, elegant wine that is very pure if a little less plush than the Colore tasted alongside.
Critic scores
Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Tom Parker MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 2021 Testamatta is entirely Sangiovese from 35- to 50-year-old vines and translates to "crazy-head." It offers a jeweled ruby color and has a lovely bouquet on opening, with pure notes of kirsch, blood orange, dusty earth, coriander, and rose petals. It continues to the palate with a seamless feel, revealing a medium-bodied frame with fine tannins, a refreshingly weightless feel, and an elegantly long and balanced finish. Graceful and pure throughout, this lovely wine will benefit from cellaring as it matures to reveal its more tertiary and savory tones, although it sure is beautiful now. Drink 2025-2040.
Beautifully understated and finessed, the 2021 Testamatta blossoms with an array of wild strawberries, rose petals and dusty sage. It’s silky to the core, with an elegant wave of ripe red and blue fruits that flows across a stream of fresh acidity. This tapers off with a tactile mineral tinge and a crunchy wild berry concentration as hints of licorice fade amidst a gentle tug of fine tannin. The continued push toward purity at Bibi Graetz is on full display here.
100% Sangiovese. Harvest 20 September to 16 October from six vineyards: Vincigliata, Olmo, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Winemaking as for Colore. Bright ruby colour. Clean, fresh red strawberries and a hint of sweet spice on the nose. The palate is surprisingly soft, with fine tannins giving an immediate approachability. Tangy acids meet polished sweet fruit. Vibrant, just a little monotone. (TP)
About the producer
Based just outside Florence, Bibi Graetz is something of a maverick in the Tuscan wine scene. Working with old vineyards of indigenous grapes around Chianti, he produces intense wines classified as IGT Toscana; not fitting neatly in either the Super Tuscan or Chianti camp.