2014 Clos Dubreuil

The 2014 Clos Dubreuil offers opulent strawberry, kirsch, white pepper and bacon fat aromas on the nose. It feels rather heady, although it just about maintains adequate delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, plenty of red berry fruit suffused with game and soy. It leads to a very harmonious finish that is knitted together by oak tannins at the moment, though there is sufficient fruit to integrate all that wood with four to five years in bottle. Give this time and you will have a very fine Saint Emilion.

The 2014 Clos Dubreuil is ripe, juicy and flamboyant, with all the elements in the right place. Succulent dark cherry, plum lavender, menthol and sweet spice emerge as the wine shows off its extroverted personality. There is no shortage of intensity, but the 2014 has also come together very nicely over the last two years.

Bought by Benoit Trocard in 2002. 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon from the limestone plateau in St-Christophe-des-Bardes. 20 months in new French oak. No crushing, 10 days' pre-fermentation maceration. Malo in barrel. Unnecessarily heavy bottle. Very little aroma at first – just a hint of dark-red fruit and graphite. On the palate there's some chocolate sweetness from the oak but it is dominated by the very fresh acidity. Firm, chewy finish, just a little short on flesh in the middle. The freshness is attractive though on the cusp of being a little out of balance with the fruit depth; all needs to meld a good bit more in bottle. (JH)