2022 Bin 311 Chardonnay

Flint. Kumquat, lime zest and stone fruit allusions. Cool climate Tasmania and Tumbarumba fruit. Mid-weighted and tautly furled with a core of fruit sweetness that expands across the filigreed finish. Long! I like this wine. While it is reductive in the contemporary Australian vein, it is far less so than the Penfolds chardonnay style of just a few years ago, with a relaxed glide across the finish. Creamed cashew and praline at its core, conferring generosity. Real juice, thrust and crunch to this. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Tasmania’s winter rainfall was below average, however a wetter-than-average October resulted in favourable soil-moisture profiles leading into budburst. Spring snow was reported in elevated areas but no frost in the vineyards. Lower spring temperatures and wind during flowering resulted in lower-than-anticipated yields. Warmer summer temperatures prevailed throughout the growing season. La Niña affected Tumbarumba, with very heavy rain before and after flowering. However, dry conditions followed and yields were reportedly excellent. Adelaide Hills had a long cool ripening season without any real problems from La Niña. A hailstorm in October caused some crop loss and cold weather delayed flowering and fruit set by several weeks but yields were near average. Generally mild summer and autumn weather resulted in a long growing season. Aged for eight months in French oak barriques (34% new). TA 6.5 g/l, pH 3.09. Extremely restrained and chewy. Quite a bit of oak influence on the nose. Australian austerity means it’s clean and lifted but not that much fun on the palate. Light smokiness – I don’t suppose any of these ingredients have seen much oxygen! (JR)