2017 St Joseph Deschants

The 2017 Saint Joseph Deschants comes mostly from the southern part of the appellation and was brought up in a mix of concrete tank and older barrels. Deep purple-hued with notes of cassis, graphite, white flowers, and crushed rocks, it has classic Saint Joseph minerality, medium to full-bodied depth and richness, ripe tannins, and a great finish. This was another stunning tasting with the team at Chapoutier. They’ve produced some of the wines of the vintage in both 2017 and 2018. The team here compares 2017 to 2007, which is a comparison I understand, even if I think the quality of their 2017s are a step up. Both vintages were hot and dry, and the wines have expressive, sunny profiles. I reviewed their top 2017 dry whites last year, but the 2017 reds showed spectacularly well this year, most coming in at the upper end of their barrel range. Looking at the 2018s, this is another blockbuster year at this estate and the wines reveal even deeper purple (almost blue) hues compared their 2017 counterparts as well as a touch more freshness in their aromatics reminiscent of a cooler vintage. Nevertheless, these are big, rich, concentrated wines that have building tannins and structure as well as loads of fruit, and are built for the cellar. One of the beauties of the 2018s is that the wines have a wonderful sense of freshness and purity reminiscent of a cooler year, yet paired with the fruit, depth, and richness of a warmer year. Lastly, the lineup here seems to grow each year and at present, includes two sparkling wines, three Saint-Péray, two Condrieu, two Cornas, four Côte Rôtie, six Crozes Hermitage, nine Hermitage, and six Saint Joseph. Also, there are a handful of Vin de France and IGP releases. The top “Sélections Parcellaires” cuvées range from 300 to 1,000 cases, and while they can be frightfully expensive, they’re among the greatest wines in the world. However, don’t overlook the value releases from Chapoutier, where you get serious bang for the buck.

Typically one of the better values in the Chapoutier lineup, the 2017 Saint-Joseph Deschants (made mostly from purchased grapes) continues in that mold, offering consumers a spicy, mineral-laced red with immediate appeal, yet it has the ability to improve for several years. Scents of crushed stone and black olives are buffered by some dark cherry notes in this medium-bodied wine that remains true to its mostly granitic roots—firm, reserved and even a bit austere. Aging is in concrete (60%) and old demi-muids (40%).

Dark ruby. Powerful aromas of blackberry liqueur, pungent flowers and smoky minerals, along with a suggestion of baking spices that builds with air. Smooth and expansive on the palate, offering appealingly sweet dark berry and floral pastille flavors and a touch of smokiness. Closes on a suave floral pastille note, with impressive energy, supple tannins and resonating florality.