2013 Abandonado

A field blend from one of the oldest Gaivosa vineyards (80 years) on the top of slope, with almost more rocks than vines. The 20 or more varieties include Tinta Amarela Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Sousão. Aged 18 months in new French and Portuguese oak. Deep garnet with a ruby rim. Glorious fruit intensity on the nose – both red and black fruits – and a dark almost charry note that seems to be more a reflection of its rocky place of origin than anything to do with the oak, though there is some sweetness of oak spice in the mix and a savoury black-olive note. Intense and smooth but, as with the Lordelo, there is a hint of bitterness on the finish, that I do not remember noticing on this wine before except (now I look back) in the 2005. But there is also a touch of vanilla that masks that very slightly sour aftertaste and seems to bring it into better harmony on the finish. (JH)

The 2013 Abandonado is a field blend aged for 18 months in a mixture of new French and Portuguese oak. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol. Sourced from a plot over 80 years old, this seems like a fine performance in a tricky vintage. Admittedly, its fruit does not show the personality that some other years have had. It is just not as expressive--Abandonado is often rather distinctive. It is still laced with strawberry-tinged herbs on the finish and it is rather tasty. More importantly, it adds a fresh, open feel, avoiding jamminess and overripe fruit. The tannins are moderate. This should still improve with some cellaring, pulling in a bit of oak and moderating the tannins even more while acquiring complexity. Of the winery's three red offerings this issue, this will have its share of picks for #1, given its crisp feel and less obvious oak than the Gaivosa (although I do think the gorgeous Gaivosa is better). They both have a refined style overall. This is a beauty with room to improve, but it is just a bit compact in this difficult year. It still showed fine grip the next day when retasted, though. It is no slacker. It will be interesting to see how it ages. This may yet become more intriguing. It is an understated Abandonado, but it shows well and you will find yourself wanting another glass.