2017 Barolo San Rocco

The Azelia 2017 Barolo San Rocco shows some tightness and firmness initially, but it ultimately reveals an open and accessible quality of fruit with dried raspberry, cherry and wild plum. Those fruit flavors take a sudden turn to embrace some of the more mineral aromas associated with Serralunga d'Alba, such as iron ore and rusty nail. This hot and dry vintage release of 7,500 bottles doesn't show the same depth or complexity that we saw in the classic 2016 growing season. Instead, this wine is fruit forward and a little more contoured and streamlined overall. On the close, you do get a point of dusty astringency that should subside with time.

The 2017 Barolo San Rocco has aromas of leather, black cherry, cedar, and licorice. The palate is ripe up front and leads with black raspberry, baking spice, and balsamic. Consistent with gripping structure, these wines need time to unfurl. Drink 2025-2042. Located in Castiglione Falletto, the Azelia estate was founded in 1920 by Lorenzo Scavino. Today it is led by his great-grandson, Luigi Scavino, who is also the cousin of Enrico Scavino of the Paolo Scavino winery. They work to minimize treatments in the vineyard as well as sulfur in the winery. Annual production is approximately 6,000 cases a year.

The 2017 Barolo San Rocco is powerful and tightly wound. All of its energy is focused inward today. There is terrific brightness and focus to the red berry fruit, but the 2017 is not in a mood to show much today. Readers will have to be patient. I am encourage by the wine's solid feel and pure power.