2017 Barolo Cerretta

This is the second vintage of this new single-vineyard expression from Serralunga d'Alba. It is a family project that has been in the works for decades. This 3,500-bottle release of the Azelia 2017 Barolo Cerretta represents a firm and compact wine that sits tight on the palate. The hot vintage has developed a robust structure and power but has also subtracted from the wine's ruby color intensity. Indeed, its light garnet hue is deceptive once you consider the wine's substantial textural fiber and fruit intensity. There is sweet cherry and plum followed by candied orange peel and rusty iron ore. It should be fascinating to see how this wine evolves, as I imagine the tannins will become softer and pliant with time, but the wine's color will surely fade further. This cru is dedicated to the centennial anniversary of the estate.

The 2017 Barolo Cerretta has layered aromatics of dried black cherry, leather, dried thyme, and tar. The palate is classically structured with tension and firm tannic grip and a long finish. The Cerretta’s savory dark fruit is persistent, with extracted black tea and dried earth. This is deserving of additional time in cellar and will benefit from 3-6 years before enjoying 2025-2045. Located in Castiglione Falletto, the Azelia estate was founded in 1920 by Lorenzo Scavino. Today it is led by his great-grandson, Luigi Scavino, who is also the cousin of Enrico Scavino of the Paolo Scavino winery. They work to minimize treatments in the vineyard as well as sulfur in the winery. Annual production is approximately 6,000 cases a year.

The 2017 Barolo Cerretta is another powerful wine. Unlike the San Rocco, which is dense in the middle, the Cerretta is distinguished by a more austere, linear feel. Crushed flowers, mint, licorice, blood orange and pine build with time in the glass. The tannins are incisive at this stage, so a few years of cellaring is essential.