2020 Hermitage La Chapelle Blanc
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Jeff Leve, The Wine Cellar Insider
Jeb Dunnuck
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Also shockingly light and stripped, the 2020 Hermitage La Chapelle Blanc has mid-weight aromas and flavors of honeysuckle, green almond, and citrus. It’s a significant step down from past vintages, and this estate seems to continue making fresh, lively, yet dilute wines. While the wheels haven’t come completely off at this estate, there’s a significant drop in terms of quality starting with the 2019s and continuing with the 2020s. Whether this is simply COVID related or indicative of a larger issue is yet to be determined. To be sure, the wines are still well-made, but to have access to some of the greatest terroirs in the world and to be producing mid-weight, lean wines is disappointing to say the least.
The 2020 Hermitage la Chapelle Blanc (last bottled in 2014) comes entirely from the Maison Blanche lieu-dit and is 100% Marsanne. Like the other Jaboulet whites from 2020, it's on the leaner side, with pear and citrus enriched by some leesy character. Medium-bodied, it's long and elegant, even if it's a significant departure in style from most examples of Hermitage Blanc. With it's higher-than-normal acid levels and crisper feel, it's conceivable that I've underrated it as a young wine and that it will blossom in time.