2018 Volnay Caillerets
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Tasting notes
All destemmed and aged in 15% new oak, the 2018 Volnay 1er Les Caillerets comes from vines planted in 1957 and more red clay soils. It takes air to show at it best and, as with all of the 2018s here, it builds nicely with time in the glass. Lots of ripe red and black cherry fruits, loamy soil, spic -box, dried flowers, and a distinct salty mineral/crushed stone-like sensation all emerge on the nose, and this beauty is more medium-bodied, with a supple, layered texture and a vibrant spine of acidity. It shows the up-front, ripe style of the vintage in its aromatics, yet it’s pure, precise, and grounded on the palate by its bright acidity. Give bottles 4-5 years and enjoy over the following two decades.
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
The 2018 Volnay Les Caillerets 1er Cru is slightly darker in color than the Les Mitans. The nose needs a few moments to cohere but develops entrancing rose petal and oyster shells aromas that infuse the vivid red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins. Quite saline and spicy in the mouth, leading into a persistent, slightly peppery finish. You can really feel the mineral soils here. This will age for decades.
Destemmed entirely by hand this year, the 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets opens with an exquisite bouquet of plums, wild berries, dark chocolate and peonies that displays striking purity of fruit. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and elegantly enveloping, with succulent acids, superb depth at the core and a long, mineral finish.
Red soils over limestone, 29 ares (0.72 acre). After 2017 they pulled up half the 60-year-old vines because they were struggling after frost and hail. Those extremes – four hails and frost in 2016 – were too much for the vines. They planted it with a mix of plants for two years, to bring life back to the soil. Dark, ripe and generous on the nose. More dark fruited than the Mitans and Pitures. More savoury and spicy and yet has creamy compact tannins. Beautifully structured and then a long stony mineral finish. Such purity. (JH)