2021 Eastside Vineyard Chardonnay

From a somewhat warmer site on thin, volcanic soils overlooking the Russian River, Eastside—originally a collaboration between Ulises Valdez and Mark Aubert—features a Montrachet selection planted on riparia rootstock. Despite plenty of new French oak in the élevage, there's only a faintly fumé, crushed-stone character on the nose, which nicely sets off the wine's white peach and lime notes. Full-bodied and generous but sturdily built, with an imposing structure, the 2021 Chardonnay Eastside is powerful and long on the finish. The crop was virtually wiped out by a spring frost in 2020, but the vines rebounded in 2021, yielding 1,400 cases.

The 2021 Eastside Chardonnay comes barreling out of the glass with notes of creme brulee, preserved mandarin peel, honeycomb, and pear tart, leading to a core of apple butter and crushed stones. The full-bodied palate is tight-knit and chalky, with loads of citrus and pear layers, finishing long and savory. This comes from a warmer site, in Russian River, usually the second to be picked (after Sugar Shack). It is planted to the Montrachet clone on very rocky, gravelly soils, where the vines really struggle.