2018 Condrieu Les Terrasses de l'Empire
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Tasting notes
Such wonderful apricot fruit, yet there is a sense of restraint too, it isn't an all-singing, all-dancing number. Instead, there is depth here, and shape – the alcohol is high and the acid is low, but the whole is balanced and fleshy, satisfyingly rich and exotic. There's a creaminess here which could easily be mistaken for oak (of which there is none new). Long and pithy on the finish, lots of apricot-skin character. As masterful as ever. (RH)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
From 35 year-old vines from various spots around the appellation. Aged for eight months in various old wooden containers. Deep gold. Smoky, almost reductive nose. Salty start and then pure apricot-skin flavour. Full, rich but dry on the finish and thoroughly satisfying. Impressively long. Not a wine to slake a thirst with but it wraps itself round the palate as though made of cream velvet. Careful food match needed. Could be great with our langoustiens and aïoli tonight. Long. (JR)
Translucent, green-tinged yellow. Incisive, mineral- and spice-driven pink grapefruit, pear and peach scents are complemented by building violet, iodine and floral nuances. Juicy and sharply focused on the palate, offering deeply concentrated yet lithe orchard and pit fruit flavors braced by a spine of smoky minerality and a touch of bitter citrus zest. Finishes sappy, nervy and extremely long, leaving floral and candied ginger notes behind.
The 2018 Condrieu Les Terrasses de L'Empire has a portion brought up in oak, all being used, and it's always a great introduction into the wines of this estate. Medium to full-bodied, elegant and seamless, it has terrific purity (especially given the heat in the vintage) as well as lots of white flower, salted citrus, tangerine, and a kiss of rocky minerality. Nicely concentrated as well as balanced, this brilliant wine is not far off the two pricier releases. Both 2017 and 2018 were scorchers for the Northern Rhône, which can be difficult for Condrieu, yet Christine Vernay has done a brilliant job in both vintages. These wines show plenty of richness and depth yet hold onto a terrific sense of purity and freshness.
About the producer
A legendary name, Domaine Georges Vernay crafts some of the finest whites in the world, having championed Condrieu when it was on the brink of extinction. The estate is best known for its single-site Coteau de Vernon Condrieu and is now in the hands of the third and fourth generation of the family.