2009 Long Now

All of the very best attributes of the vintage and the Pelissero house style come through in the 2009 Long Now. A huge, rich wine, the Long Now bursts from the glass with dark fruit, mocha, grilled herbs and smoke. This voluptuous, striking wine is loaded with class through and through. Tar, licorice and smoke are layered into the deep, resonant finish. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. Pelissero is without question one of the top-tier estates in Barbaresco. Every wine in this lineup is solid and well worth seeking out. In particular, the 2009 Barbareschi are some of the very finest wines I have ever tasted here. The management of the tannins – such a problem at other estates – was expertly handled. Pelissero’s 2010 Barbareschi had been bottled just before my visit and were too closed down to properly evaluate. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

Saturated bright ruby. Liqueur-like black raspberry and crushed blackberry. Fatter and sweeter than the 2008 but with a bit less lift and definition. Less noble but massive, with a distinctly thick texture and a strong licorice flavor. This bruiser is in a heavier style than the 2008 (it's close to 15% alcohol), but with its sexy richness it will probably be easier to sell.

The 2009 Long Now shows fabulous balance in its supple fruit and understated personality. Silky and elegant from start to finish, the 2009 shows off layers of dark black fruit, leather, licorice and new leather. Today the wine is a touch compact, but there is a good chance it will open up with further time in bottle. Sweet floral notes are woven throughout the finish.