2018 Barolo Paiagallo

The 2018 Barolo Paiagallo is laced with kirsch, sweet spice, new leather, menthol and rose petal. Exotic and super-ripe, the 2018 shows all the warmth of the year in its sweet fruit and pronounced alcohol, but avoids the angular contours that afflict so many wines. Even with all of that richness, the 2018 retains a good bit of freshness and energy. An opened bottle was still vibrant after a number of days whereas many other wines in the same tasting faded far faster. The 2018 is a very fine effort from one of Barolo's artisan growers, but readers have to be willing to accept elevated ripeness and alcohol.