2011 Heloise

65% Syrah, 31% Grenache and 4% Roussanne – instead of the usual touch of Viognier. 18 months in barrel. pH 3.7, TA 3.4 g/l (as sulphuric), 5.2 g/l (as tartaric). Deep crimson with very little sign of age in the colour. On the nose this is seductive like the northern Rhône in its complex peppery, smoky sophistication but with an added smoky bacon sweetness. On the palate, riper than the northern Rhône and more generous, still with lovely peppery Syrah flavour, plus a slight spicy meatiness and just a hint of leathery complexity and oak's sweet spice. The tannins are à point – ie you could drink this now, with food, as it was intended, or you could certainly cellar it for at least another decade. I admire the fact that this vintage has only just been released when delaying it has serious financial implications for the producer. Long, smooth, lingering and cool aftertaste, which is surprising given the alcohol level. Unusual to include Roussanne rather than Viognier in the blend. I am not sure how it influences the wine but I think it is in a slight creamy fruit sweetness on the finish. Tasted again, lightly chilled, two days later, this is still beautifully fresh and lively. (JH)

Starting with the 2011 IGP Vaucluse Heloise, the Viognier component has been replaced by Roussanne, so the 2011 is 61% Syrah, 35% Grenache and 4% Roussanne. It offers hints of smoked black olives on the nose, followed by a wine that's full-bodied and sturdy on the palate, with some rustic, meaty notes that linger on the finish. Give it a couple of years in the cellar, then drink it over the next decade.

Also brilliant stuff, the 2011 IGP Vaucluse Heloise (70% Syrah, 20-25% Grenache and the rest Viognier) offers lots of blackberry fruits, peppery herbs and smoked earth aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied, nicely concentrated, yet with an incredible sense of elegance and finesse, no doubt imparted by the limestone soils and higher elevation vineyards, this beautiful Syrah will continue drinking beautifully for another decade or more. Located high up in the Dentelles de Montmirail behind the picturesque village of Séguret, Chêne Bleu is run by the Rolet Family, with Jean-Louis Gallucci making the wines. The wines all come from these higher elevation, limestone-driven soils and the estate produces two whites, one rosé, and two top reds. Looking at the top reds, the Heloise is Syrah-dominated and always reminds me of a top Côte Rôtie. The Abelard is the more Grenache-dominated cuvée (it’s 80-85% Grenache with the balance Syrah) and oozes Provençal charm, with a style not far from a top Gigondas. These wines are not cheap, but unquestionably the quality is there.