1997 Langhe Rosso Larigi

I have long believed the level of a producer can only be truly understood by looking at the small vintages, and this next set of wines is truly surprising. To be sure, none of the wines of the early 1990s is extraordinary, but they reveal so much about what it means to be a top-level grower. Altare's 1997 Larigi is very reminiscent of the 1990 in the way it covers the every nook and cranny of the palate with ripe, opulent fruit. This is a grand, sweeping Larigi endowed with superb balance and plenty of style. Once again, the wine's poise and sense of harmony is impeccable.