2020 Chinon l'Huisserie

The 2020 L'Huisserie is not a big wine; it's planted on flint and provides real punch and a razor-sharp line through the core. In 2020, there's succulent flesh coating its finely-cut frame, but it remains relatively light-bodied. This is lightly spiced and savory, with polished, delicious black fruit.

Cherries and liquorice root. This is so much more ready, open and friendly than the 2016 vintage of the same cuvée tasted just before (2020 was a much warmer, sunnier year and the winemaker tells me that silex (the flint soils on which this Cabernet Franc grows) is very sensitive to vintage differences. Redcurrant and blood orange, caraway leaf. Mintiness. Super-fresh finish. The tannins are dry, lean, but supple, fluid, gymnastic. There is an elegantly held, unconscious beauty and poise about this wine. This is a delight, and (without having had the chance to decant the 2016) I'd recommend this over the slightly more expensive 2016. (TC)

L'Huisserie is a clay-flint vineyard on Chinon's slopes. The 2020 was tasted as a tank sample. It is a fluid, flowing style that conveys a sense of ease, as it flows across the palate. It is elegant and appetising with black fruits and a light piquancy. Finishes with cedar notes, licorice and fruit cake spices. This is certainly a high quality and ripe, well made style. The abundant tannins are a triumph, coating the mouth with reassuring gourmandise. This doesn't stay still, it has lovely line and direction.